Tony istock
Member
Big buggy big tires steering not working good at idle better with more rpm fluid seems to get hot fast
-
If you log in, the ads disappear in the forum and gallery. If you need help logging in or getting registered, send request to: webmaster@southernairboat.com
Big buggy steering
- Thread starter Tony istock
- Start date
Slidin Gator
Well-known member
Is this a full hydraulic steer setup or steering box setup? If hydraulic, what size ram? What do you use for a cooler?
Please provide some details of the setup.
Tony istock
Member
2.5 x 10 single ended ram 1.250 shaft 160 non load orbital thanks for helping we did some testing and the fluid is only at 110 degrees after thirty min steering seems to be improving with use
Slidin Gator
Well-known member
I assume this is a Chevy with a standard power steering pump. It sounds like the relief valve might have been leaking due to trash resulting in lower pressure and higher temp.
I add shims to the relief spring pack to increase the pressure and steering capacity. I also drill out the flow control valve a bit to increase flow and response, but too much and the pump will cavitate. I can dig up the details and post if interested.
I also run a hydraulic system oil cooler about half the size of my radiator and it has a dedicated electric fan, but this system also drives a hydraulic winch.
Slidin Gator
Well-known member
The aftermarket stuff is not "rated" any higher on pressure, they are just set higher.
I run steering and a hydraulic winch off my modified OEM pump. I adjust the relief to 1,500 PSI and open up the orifice on the priority flow valve just a bit. The winch is slow, but it runs all day. My original setup was the old school V-belt drive, squealing all the time and slipped when the buggy was submerged (when I REALLY needed the winch!). This was on a straight 6 Chevy and my next move was to mount a gear pump on the harmonic balancer. It worked awesome, plenty of steering and winch screamed.
When I switched to newer model engines with the serpentine belt, the "no workey" issues evaporated, and I have stuck with modifying OEM remans from Advance Auto for years. Just keep spare idler pulleys with fresh bearings in the parts box. I buy the bearings by the 10 pack, cheapest I can find.
Slidin Gator
Well-known member
Post some details please, always interested in options.
For the record, here are the details of what I run/do. I pulled the info from the following thread on Pirate 4x4.
Best of : Power steering pump modifications ( pressure...
The following is plagiarized as hell.
Volume and Pressure UPGRADES
First off, I want to clarify that these mods are designed for OFFROAD USE ONLY!!! And any damages that occur as a result of these mods are the responsibility of the owner. we are just trying to help you with ideas on improving power.
This was designed to work with hydro assist steering setups, but I will also explain certain things that can be done to upgrade for regular power steering. It should work on all Jeep pumps and as far as I know all Chevy pumps. They may be adaptable to other types of pumps and we will update as we learn more. All of this can be done with the pump still on the vehicle as long as you have room to remove the pieces.
Step one: Disassembly
These are the 3 main pieces that you should get out of your pump.
#1 is the main fitting. You'll have to remove the high pressure line from this before you remove it.
#2 is the flow piston. It doubles as the housing for the high pressure bypass. If it doesn't fall out then use a magnet to remove it.
#3 is the piston spring. It also can be removed with a magnet or a pic.
Step two: Drilling the fitting for higher priority flow.
This increases the flow to the steering cylinder and particularly improves low engine speed response. But too much and the pump will cavitate (whine), buy another pump and drill one size less.
Drill out this fitting a few sizes larger than it was. I drill them 1/16-1/8" larger than is comes stock but this may vary from pump to pump. I recommend that you don't go larger than 5/32. The purpose of this is to increase flow from idle to low RPM's.
Step three: Increase pump output pressure
Place the piston in a vise and remove the end cap. Inside you find the items in the following picture.
WARNING: I highly recommend doing these mods a little at a time until you've reached a level that you are happy with. But remember, that if you go too far then you could blow the seals out of your box. I've actually built so much pressure that I blew a section of the top of the steering box about 40 feet across the shop. OOPS!
First off, some pumps don't have any shims. Some have one or two. If it does have a shim remove it and try that. I don't recommend doing any more than that if you are going to run hydro assist but if you are just trying to get more power out of a stock system and that does not give you enough then you can place a small washer in the bottom of the piston housing beneath the spring. A #4 machine washer fits perfect but can be a little too thick. A 3mm washer also works and is slightly thinner. Remember little steps. These mods increase the relief pressure, resulting in higher pump and system pressure. This increases the effectiveness of steering rams, but also loads the pump and system higher.
You will also need to grind off some of the limiting stud so that it will still have room to travel. This is so that it doesn't block off all the pressure.
Step 4: Piston Spring
I have no hard evidence that this works but it does seem to help keep the pressure longer at higher RPM's. Just grab each end of the spring and stretch. I usually try to go between 2 to 2 ½ inches. This not a precise mod as the spring rate does not change. I've also seen a piece of wire wound around the piston housing a couple of times on the area where the spring seats. This will also work.