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g8rforlife
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Post subject: 0360 rear seal leak Posted: Mon Feb 08, 2010 9:28 pm |
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| Southern Airboat Member |
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Joined: Sun Nov 15, 2009 9:31 am Posts: 208 Location: citrus county
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What all goes into changing the real seal the props off right now so i thought now was a good time to change it. It looks like its one piece but split thru one side.
_________________ 12 ft rivermaster 0360 angle valve 200 72 inch q series on the #2 mark
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Champ18ft
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Post subject: Re: 0360 rear seal leak Posted: Mon Feb 08, 2010 10:42 pm |
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Joined: Mon Oct 03, 2005 5:34 pm Posts: 1588 Location: Parrish, Fla
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If it's not leaking I wouldn't fool with it. You have 2 types.1 is a split type and the other is solid.
_________________ 13-5' Gilleo Lazer 0-540 A/V 74" Q
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JD
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Post subject: Re: 0360 rear seal leak Posted: Mon Feb 08, 2010 11:16 pm |
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| Southern Airboat Member |
Joined: Thu Jul 06, 2006 6:02 pm Posts: 121 Location: louisiana
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I had a rear(at the prop) seal leak for years. Finally put some red silicon gaskets on my "ROCKER COVERS" and presto, no more rear seal leak. You could barely detect a little oil around one of the front rocker covers, and somehow, that oil made it's way to the rear seal and would drip on the deck, and even spread out on the prop from the center out. What I'm saying is, if it looks like a front/rear seal leak and you have any other minor leak on the motor, that other minor leak may be the problem!!! Air moving around your motor can make oil do wierd things.
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g8rforlife
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Post subject: Re: 0360 rear seal leak Posted: Tue Feb 09, 2010 7:28 am |
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| Southern Airboat Member |
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Joined: Sun Nov 15, 2009 9:31 am Posts: 208 Location: citrus county
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Its leaking more than just a bit. My flywheel was loaded with oil and my prop has it on all four blades all the way to the tip all the jugs look like they are not leaking.
_________________ 12 ft rivermaster 0360 angle valve 200 72 inch q series on the #2 mark
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MYDIXIEWRECKED
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Post subject: Re: 0360 rear seal leak Posted: Tue Feb 09, 2010 8:13 am |
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Joined: Tue Dec 18, 2007 7:48 am Posts: 2789 Location: Plantation,fl Area 3A south camp 9 1/2
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They are not hard to change at all. Take the old one out, I use a pick to grab it.(some engines have metal tabs with 1/4-20 bolts holding them on) anyway I use some brakewash on a rag and clean the seal area in the block. then I make sure the crank is clean. I polish the seal area of the crank with some croakus cloth if need be. Then you take the spring out of the new seal and clip it together around the crank. Next you put the seal around the crank. Now the fun part, where I use a pick also. You have to get the spring on the lip in the rear of the seal(to squeeze the seal on the crank). once you have that done, I myself put some sealant on the outside edge of the seal just to make sure it holds to the block. I've seen them spin before. I also make sure the lip of the seal is lubricated so it isn't running dry. Then you just push it in flush and let the sealer set up.
_________________ THOUGHT FOR THE DAY Women are like phones: They like to be held, talked to, and touched often. But push the wrong button and your a$$ is disconnected.
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